Saving in 401k vs Saving for Home Downpayment

Elsewhere it was suggested to start a separate thread on an off-topic tangent about whether it was better for a young person to prioritize saving in 401k vs saving for a primary home downpayment. I found this topic interesting, so I did a more detailed review.

If you don’t want to read the long post, the basic summary is 401k came out ahead with current mortgage rates However, with 0% fed rate type <4% mortgages as was common in the past, the results may differ. The results were also highly dependent on what type of rental you choose in place of a home.

My opinion is that 401k investment is generally financially advantageous to purchasing a home. There are also less direct financial advantages, such as being more open to opportunities for taking a high paying job out of area or working fully from home in lower cost of living area. Instead the primary benefits to buying a home are often not financial, improved quality of life benefits.


When comparing different investment types, I think it is important consider the relative risk/variance. There are different average return expectations for different risk levels. Using Case-Shiller stats since 1987 as a proxy for home value, I get the following stats for home value:

Home Value – Average Annualized Return = 4.5%, Standard Deviation = 6%

This standard deviation is much lower than a full market index type investment. With the lower variance, it’s more appropriate to compare with a 2/3 bonds, 1/3 market Index type portfolio. Using the same 1987+ period, this portfolio, I get the following for this portfolio:

2/3 Bond Portfolio – Average Annualized Return = 7.1%, Standard Deviation = 6%

As an initial comparison, I’ll start with the more simple case, without a mortgage. I realize this is not typical, particularly for younger persons. However, many do purchase homes without a mortgage in my area.

For the home purchase case, one needs to subtract home expenses from the home gain such as property tax, home maintenance, home repairs, home insurance, HOA, etc. The size of these expenses are going to be highly variable depending on both the specific home and specific location. Dividing average surveyed expenses by average home price in the US, I get a ~2.5% of home value annual expense. I’ll use that figure for now.

With the bond portfolio, one needs to subtract 401k related expenses, as well as rent expenses that would not occur with the home. I’ll assume 0.6% for 401k + fund expenses. Rent are expenses are highly variable, depending onw what you are renting in place of the home. You could live with your parents and pay no rent, rent a small apartment, or rent a large home. The results will vary dramatically depending on which option you choose. The average rent / average home value = 3.6%. I’ll assume 4% for now. This results in the following rough year to year estimate prior to home sale expenses. The 401k comes out ahead, but not by much per year. With different assumptions, buying a home could come out ahead.

Home (purchase in cash): 4.5% - 2.5% = 2.0%
401k (2/3 /bonds): 7.1% - 0.6% - 4% = 2.5%

Next I’ll compare to a US market index portfolio and mortgage leverage for similar variance level to a full US market index portfolio. The full market portfolio averaged a 10.5% annualized return in the reference period. If I consider the variance in return as a function of the initial investment and principal, I get a similar level of variance to US market index with a 35% downpayment on home. I’ll assume the buyer keeps their home for 10 years (most young people sell before 10 years) and has 6% of home value selling fees when home is sold. The average 30 year mortgage rate is currently 7%. The average throughout the period since 1987 is closer to 6%. I’ll use 6% for now. I will assume the relative difference in annual expenses between the 2 options is invested in 401k each year, and the 401k is never maxed out. 401k investments that are the same in both cases are not included. With these assumptions, the results are summarized and pictured below for a $500k home with 35% * $500k = $175k down.

Home (35% down, 6% mortgage): $330k equity - Expenses = $54k on year 15
401k (100% market index): $733k 401k - Rent = $476k on year 15

The bulk of the 401k advantage in the example above comes from rent being a lesser expense than mortgage + home expenses, so more gets saved in the 401k during each year if you rent instead of buyng home.

Obviously few young persons put 35% down on a home. According to Rocket Mortgage, the average first time home buyer only puts 6% down on a home. 6% down corresponds to an extraordinarily high risk level, a far higher risk than a 100% US market index 401k. I’ll ignore this higher gain expectation given the increased risk level for now. 6% down also usually results in PMI and worse mortgage terms, which I’ll also ignore. Instead I’ll use the following more generous assumptions towards home buying this time – 6% down, 5% mortgage, 5% rent (if not buying home), 8% return after fees on 401k. With these assumptions, I get:

Home (6% down, 5% mortgage): $364k equity - Expenses = Negative $126k on year 15
401k (8% return): $289k 401k - Rent = Negative $32k on year 15

While 401k still came out ahead. This time the results were much closer. If one could go back to past years when the fed rate was often ~0% and <4% mortgages were common, buying a home would have come out ahead in this example.

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I would say - if you are saving for a home and you need to save more, then you can reduce your contribution in your 401K to your minimum required to match - and take it up later.

I kept my 401K and saved before I bought my first house - but don’t forget, if you don’t have 20% down, you’re paying PMI too - not sure if calculated in your number.

Obviously a personal decision but I would personally reduce my 401K to the minimum required to get that match and then save the rest.

It’s more a lifestyle decision than financial - have no clue how the finances look.

They might even say I shouldn’t have bought the house I did 17 years ago - but I have to live somewhere.

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My “please listen carefully” advice to young people is to put at least as much in retirement plan as is matched by company. There aren’t many places you get a guaranteed 100% return on investment.
Other than that ideally you can do some of both.

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It’s such a tough call, because it’s dependent upon so many things that are hard to define numerically.

Our kids live in SF and NYC, and the cost of purchasing a house or condo is crazy expensive. They can rent for far less than paying a mortgage. Even if they could afford a down payment on a multi-million dollar unit, the monthly payments would be crazy, and add on high property taxes and HOA fees. We completely discouraged them from even considering it unless there was some radical housing bust.

Now if they lived in a low cost of living area, had a family and wanted to stay there for a long time, found a good deal, absolutely, do the 401K employer match then save for a home.

We just went on a trip to France, and something I found interesting was that the guide said that many people can afford to buy a house there in their twenties, and these are forever houses, they often can buy something nice enough that they never need to move. Can you imagine? I’ve moved so many times, and I would definitely not want to live in the crummy little house in the shady neighborhood that I bought at age 23 now that I’m 60!

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That’s a good point about PMI. I mentioned PMI in the 6% down example, but intentionally excluded it from the calculation. With first time home buyer putting an average of 6% down, I expect the vast majority are getting a mortgage with PMI. Many people do seem to favor putting down as little as they are allowed by lender and borrowing as much as they are allowed by lender.

17 years ago was 2006 – just before the subprime mortgage crisis, at the peak of the housing bubble, In my area, Case-Shiller decreased by 43% from 2006 to 2009. When I was looking at homes in 2009, some neighborhoods in my area had house after house either listed as short sale or foreclosure. I bought my current home from a guy who owed several hundred thousand more than the home value. We closed on the day before it switched from short sale to foreclosure, which I found useful for price negotiation.

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I paid $505k. Maybe last summer it goes $1.2. Maybe. Now. $1 to $1.05. Minus commission

Add in all the maintenance and upgrades.

17 years - not a great investment.

But it’s more. I raised two kids and still live here.

And make money on my 3.25 mortgage with 4% munis.

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This is not the appropriate basis for comparison, since rental properties are much smaller than houses for purchase.

You should use the cap rate, which is calculated after expenses and is typically 4%+.

Another consideration with leverage is that in many states, owner-occupier mortgages are non-recourse, unlike many other cheap loans. And non-callable unlike margin loans. Those are both major benefits (effectively a free put option from being non-recourse) which advantage mortgages, and there are tax benefits (deductibility of mortgage interest) in addition.

The post stated the following before the sentence you quoted, which discusses what is the appropriate comparison.

“Rent expenses are highly variable, depending on what you are renting in place of the home. You could live with your parents and pay no rent, rent a small apartment, or rent a large home. The results will vary dramatically depending on which option you choose.”

The appropriate comparison varies depending on what the specific individual/family rents instead of purchasing the home. I expect the vast majority of young people who are not yet home owners rent something smaller than the future home they hope to purchase.

A summary of how the totals change when varying rent in example 2 is below:
4% Rent-- 401k = $476k / Home = $54k
5% Rent – 401k = $309k / Home = $54k
6% Rent – 401k = $141k / Home = $54k
7% Rent – 401k = -$27k / Home = $54k

The standard deviation on home value return is too low. That’s the real issue in trying to crystal ball the best path. I agree with a previous poster that investing in your 401K to capture the company match is a no brainer. We were sick of crazy rent increases in the mid-90s in CA and bought our first home with the dreaded PMI as even then Silicon Valley home purchases were crazy expensive. Who would have guessed in 2 years the value would have DOUBLED - as I said your standard deviation is too low.

@Data10
Thank you for undertaking this analysis! Also sent PM.

Not sure how one can determine the standard deviation since so much RE is location specific. In areas my children live, homes have nearly doubled in the last 5 years. In our area, homes have increased but over a much much longer time period. They definitely have not doubled in the last few!

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We bought our one and only home in 1997, at the bottom of the housing market, value has increased a lot (but property taxes went up almost $20,000).

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We bought our house in CA in 1997. Now it’s estimated six times of what we paid. Our kid got one in 2008. It’s doubled in price. If financial situation allows I think it has to be combination of both but after contributing to employer’s match the preference should be the down payment. One of my kids contributed to the maximum allowed for two years with employer matching half. Now this kid contributes only 5% and the rest goes towards down payment. Another kid was an early investor in something. That kid called it his retirement savings and the rest goes toward next house purchase when it’s possible because wants are not available or affordable yet.

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I bought my current house in February 2006. If I use the Zillow estimate as a selling price, I have made 21% before commissions.

It is a no brainer to max the 401 K investment to the percentage that your company matches. My question is why invest more than that? In the long run, you can take that extra money and invest it and use it how you want without penalty (buy a home, retirement income, college tuition, etc.)

We have a lot of restricted savings (401, 403, IRAs, etc.) Now that we are old, we are struggling with how to take the required distributions without getting hit with ridiculous taxes (and things like higher premiums for health care because of that higher income bracket.) I am glad now that we also have lots of savings in non retirement accounts. We are living exclusively off those savings now (and enjoying the benefits of low income - like low health care premiums).

We do own a home (bought ages ago and paid off). Not sure the math on the home ownership has worked out for us either. The amount we have paid in ever increasing real estate taxes is about equal to the increase in the value of our home. (Plus, we have made tons of capital and non-capital investments in the home over the past 35 years.)

I have always said, buy a home because you want to live in it. Don’t buy a home as an investment!

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Yeah, I think those of us who were fortunate to buy a home many years ago could stay in that home forever, if it was in the right location. My mom (who is 82), is still in the same house they bought when she was 19. But the house I bought 37 years ago has gone up five times in price (though still would be affordable as it’s in a low cost area) and the house we bought in 2006 has gone up about 150%, and we could never afford to buy it now.

It seems that the price of real estate has gone up so much in many places in this country that it is completely unaffordable for younger people to buy, particularly if they’d like to buy a house instead of a condo.

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The SD numbers from the original post are based on Case-Shiller average of 20 metropolitan areas, since 1987. These metro areas include SF Bay, San Diego, Las Vegas, Boston, NYC, Chicago, Tampa, Phoenix, Detroit, … Case-Shiller is weighted more towards population centers and less towards rural areas.

It is true that real estate markets in many specific regions are quite different from the national average. For example, my area saw higher gains than the national average during the 2000s housing bubble and saw a sharper decline during the subprime mortgage crisis following that bubble. My area also saw sharper increases in the post-COVID bubble, with a >50% average increase over a period of 2 years, compared to Case-Shiller of ~40%. Case-Shiller for SF Bay Area shows a 40% increase, like the the ~40% increase used in the SD computation, so if your home doubled in value in 2 years, you probably had far better returns than most persons in your area. I’d also be suspicious about how accurate the home value calculation is. Zillow/Redfin estimates are sometimes far off from actual.

How about both (if permitted by the 401k)?

No question - sacking in the guaranteed 100% return by at least covering the “match” amount is crucial.

Aiming for another 100% return (by avoiding to lose 100% of rent expense) by paying towards one’s own asset, is also a winning strategy.

Since it’s not for “expenses” the usual wisdom against 401k loans doesn’t apply here. An interim 401k savings goal of building up funds for a downpayment loan, while compounding tax-deferred earnings, could be an option?

Because the compounding effect of tax-deferred earnings. If you are able to keep reinvesting 100% of a 7% annualized return, rather than only 80%, you will have substantially more funds after a lifetime of saving.

Your taxes will only be xx% of those “substantially more” funds - still better than foregoing 100% of those.

A “problem” one is fortunate to have?

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Yes a problem one is fortunate to have - but will the tax savings early on (which you mention) be undone by the extra taxes and costs later on?

Also, the flexibility of having non restricted savings is worth something (you can use it whenever you like for whatever you like.)

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Depends on your tax rate during retirement age, vs. those earlier years when you had sufficiently high income to save away those funds?

Typically xx% of taxes on the compounded earnings is likely going to be less than never having had 100% of those added earnings in the first place.