<p>I know the beds loft to 30-31 inches and we were planning to make a bedskirt to thread over tension rods (held in place by zip ties) under the bed frame. I just found this:
[200TC</a> Twin Tailored Bed Skirt (14, 18, 21, 24, 27 or 30-inch)](<a href=“http://www.preciousbedding.com/200tc-twin-tailored-bed-skirt-14-18-or-21-inch]200TC”>200TC Twin Tailored Bed Skirt (14, 18, 21, 24, 27 or 30-inch))</p>
<p>on-line and would much rather pay $40 than make it. Question is…this fits between the mattress and boxsprings. I’m not certain this will work because it will have to fit between the mattress and the frame. I’m thinking it won’t be able to drop. Is that correct?</p>
<p>Any crafty alternatives out there? Thanks!</p>
<p>I didn’t go to this school, so I’m not* familiar with the bed you’re talking about (like the frame situation), but the alternative I’d offer is equally if not even cheaper, and it’s not DIY either. My mom and I got a curtain and just stuck that under the mattress (between the mattress and the bed frame that had a full metal “lattice” to support the entire mattress above it)* and let it fall to the floor. It never moved around because there was so much extra fabric to spread out far under the mattress You could even get two smaller one and make it so that there’s a slit down the middle so you can pull the curtains aside to the left and the right.</p>
<p>BRILLANT! Thank you!</p>
<p>Even better, get a flat sheet. That is what D is using now in Lakeside while at EC. We saw one of her roommates do this and our next visit to Target was purchasing a flat black bed sheet. Lifted the mattress, pulled it up till it was hanging where we wanted it. Put the mattress down. Done! Simple AND cheap! The width is already what you need as it is a sheet that is made to fit the bed. I even thought to make a slit in the middle only as far up as need be, sew a small hem or even do the iron on hem product and you have an opening in the middle for easy access.</p>
<p>idk if the beds in tut are the same as in RCS and other dorms, but if so, the mattress doesn’t set IN the frame, but ON the frame kind of like the poster above described.</p>
<p>people have solved the skirt problem in many ways, a custom curtain, a sheet, or even a long comforter.</p>
<p>this will likely be for just one year, so you don’t have to go overboard.</p>
<p>I love the idea of a sheet! Purchasing the fabric to make the curtain wasn’t going to be cheap - and it was going to be a headache. Does the sheet cover just one side of the bed, or do you get any coverage on the end, too?</p>
<p>The sheet did give a little bit at the end of the bed. D has her desk against the same wall as the bed so not much of under the bed showed from the foot of the bed. What little bit did was covered by the sheet.</p>
<p>I am seriously thinking about even using a sheet for her curtain and the iron in hem webbing to make the pocket for the tension rod. It would match perfectly with the bedding. And fabric is not cheap! </p>
<p>Let me just say, just the tension rod for the window was not easy to work with. It made me really doubt trying to use one for a bed skirt. Saw the sheet idea and ran with it. Way too super easy!</p>
<p>I’ve posted this before, but for my older daughter we ended up using three premade heavy weight rod pocket cafe curtain panels from Target as her bedskirt – basically the same material as the blackout drapes that people purchase for the window, but unlined. We had to hem them a couple of inches but they worked perfectly and looked like a custom made bedskirt. We did find that the long tension rod we had wasn’t sturdy enough to hold the curtains by tension alone, but a few well placed zip ties around the edge of the bed frame to attach the curtain rod to the bed frame solved the problem. </p>
<p>Younger daughter wants her bed on the lowest setting, so she should be able to use the bed skirt that comes with her comforter set, but will need to figure out whether it will work in the absence of box springs/bunk board.</p>
<p>i have posted this before too, but you can get electrical conduit pipe (it is super cheap) and rubber stoppers for the ends. get it a tad shorter than the length you need and just wedge it in between the bed posts. if it needs to be a bit tighter, you can put coins under the rubber stoppers. super sturdy.</p>
<p>^^^ I say go with the pipe method over the tension rods. If you are wanting to use a true curtain. </p>
<p>The sheet method was way too easy and no hassle.</p>
<p>I was thinking that tension rod might be a little flimsy even though it’s for wider windows. Guess we’ll keep it for the window (where it belongs) and either go with the sheet or the pipe thing-a-ma-jig and cafe curtains. Still love the idea of the sheet, but curtains would give a more finished look.</p>
<p>You could finish off the sheet at the bottom with some trim work. If you want to fancy it up.</p>
<p>For those planning curtains for the living room windows, the conduit pipe idea might also be a good idea there. The reason that the tension rod doesn’t work on the bed without the zip ties is that the span is too long without a center support – which is a problem that will also arise with living room window since it is basically the width of the bed and you cannot drill into the sheetrock above the window to hang a center support support.</p>
<p>i don’t know if the pipe idea would work in a window. it would work in a window if there weren’t already blinds there, but with the blinds already there, i am not sure there is a place to put it in the window.</p>