I was hoping to nudge my D to take a cooking class because she loves Italian food…would be nice if she were the one to take over some of the family cooking, but, nope! Maybe I will just sign us up anyway!
My plans have shaped up in the last two days…I’ve been a little obesessed. But I realized how popular Italy is, so I decided to make some bookings. The plans have morphed but I’m excited about the changes. As I mentioned earlier, we got a flight out of Zurich and I was planning to take a high-speed train from northern Italy on the next-to last day. But someone said that these trains are underground a lot of the time, tunneling beneath the mountains, which would kind of defeat the purpose of flying out of Switzerland (although it would be more efficient than backtracking to Rome from Lake Como).
After some investigations and asking questions on Tripadvisor, I found out there’s a train that originates in Milan that runs NW to Lake Como and stops a few places (including Varenna) on the lake, then curves and heads eastward to Tirano where you can catch the famed Bernina Express scenic train (with panoramic windows) through the Bernina Pass in the Alps, running near St Moritz and ending in Chur (near Davos). While it’s possible to then get another train to Zurich the same day from Chur (getting in around 8:30 PM) we decided to spend two nights in the pretty mountain town of Chur, and one night in Zurich, getting a mini-vacation in Switzerland. We really liked the look of Varenna/Lake Como, with all the grand villas, sumptuous gardens, boats criss-crossing the Lake to other villages, and possibilties of walking/hiking in the mountains. Plus, Varenna has been there since the 11th century, so there’s got to be some interesting historical aspects to explore (even though it’s no Florence!) So we’re staying four nights/three full days there to really relax into this part of the trip. Yesterday I booked a little apartment in a house that got 10/10 reviews for the location just a couple of blocks from the lake and a helpful host. Lakeside wold be great but out of my budget unless we were further out of town (hard with luggage and no car) or wanted a tiny room. Traveling with a teenager (even a nice teenager) it’s great to have room to spread out when together 24/7!
So, the downside, of course, is that leaves only four days between Rome and Como to do what I had originally thought of as the main part of the trip where we’d spend the most time (Tuscany, Umbria and/or Le Marche villages). It’s OK, because I don’t really like heat and a trip like that would probably be better in May or October. I’m looking for a classic hill town with a train station with possibilities for easy daytrips to other places by train (maybe I would rent a car for a couple of days to explore the countryside better.) Maybe Assissi (with day-trips to Spello and Perugia). Another side of me thinks I should be taking my D for a beach day somewhere (I don’t think anyone swims in Lake Como)…but that would be stretching the trip very thinly. Yet another part of my brain is kind of unsettled to miss the artwork of Florence, though maybe that (with the hill towns) is just another Italy trip waiting to happen (preferably in April/May).
Ideas? Italy experts: what, really, is the main difference (aesthetically) between the landscapes and small towns of Tuscany and Umbria? If you were blindfolded and the blinds taken off in any spot in each, would you know which region you were in (other than Tuscany having more visitors?) Does Tuscany have more vinyards, more beautiful light or landscapes? Is Umbria drier or less scenic somehow…or is it simply a little less-traveled?