an old car. 2006, a little over 100,000 miles. I think the engine is going. I am taking it to the dealership. Quite sure they will say I need a new engine. The body is in good shape and I just spent a fortune to put in a new transmission. When they put in a new transmission at the dealership a few months ago, they said all my troubles are over and it will last almost forever. Except the engine, it looks like. It starts ok but it had trouble to get going. After starting, it sputtered. I got it going but it won’t one of these days. Is it worth spending another fortune? With a new engine and a new transmission, will my troubles be truly over?
Seems like an engine should last longer than 100,000 miles. Not sure what kind of car it is.
I guess I’d get another opinion if they say it’s the engine. If the oil has been changed regularly, engines should last. That’s my opinion
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Is that right? I didn’t know an engine lasts a long time. It is a Volvo. You would think 100,000 miles is not that much. Oil has been changed regularly. I forgot to mention check engine light came on. That’s why I thought of the engine.
Volvos go forever if you take care of them. Lots of reasons for check engine lights and a majority aren’t that bad. Go to AutoZone and have them read the codes. It’s fee and will give you an idea.
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I agree that the engine should last much longer than 100k miles. I’d get a second opinion too. And since you just sunk a lot into the transmission, if it is the engine, I’d replace it and it should then last without significant issues.
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It’s rare that the entire engine needs to be replaced. When it does, usually it’s something pretty catastrophic or obvious.
Symptoms mentioned of being hard to start and sputtering could be any number of things besides the engine block or core components (pistons, valves, etc). Also I’d recommend finding a good independent mechanic if you can. I imagine there’s a number of import and/or volvo specialists out there.
If it does turn out to need a new engine, I doubt it would be worth it in a 2006 car.
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Sounds like a fuel/spark issue, but not being familiar with Volvo’s, that could still be expensive. Though not rebuilt engine expensive.
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Could be minor issue, a bad sensor.
What Problems Can Trigger the Check Engine Light?
Ranging from minor to major, a slew of things can trigger the check engine light to come on in your Volvo, including (but not limited to):
- Loose gas cap
- Faulty fuel injector
- Blown gasket heads
- Faulty oxygen sensors
- Cracked and loose hoses
- Faulty mass air flow sensor
- Worn out spark plugs and wiring
- Emission control system malfunction
Check Engine Light And Your Volvo | VolvoMechanics
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I agree with @Hippobirdy that a “check engine” light could be something very minor.
I would not panic until I had more information. I also would go into the dealership or mechanic with the apparent expectation that it is minor. You do not want them to think they can pull a fast one here.
I had a car that was making a terrible noise a few years back that made me quite worried. It turned out to be minor and cost $40.
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For the check engine light, use an OBD-II reader (there are Bluetooth ones that you can use an OBD-II mobile phone app with) to get the code and then web search for the code, year, make, model of the car.
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If a check engine light is solid, it might be something as simple as a loose gas cap or faulty O2 sensor. If it’s flashing, that’s serious and stop driving immediately. You can take it to someplace like Autozone and they will read the error for free.
I have 2004 (Honda) and 2007 (Toyota) cars, and only the 2007 had to have a new engine several years ago. Metal shavings were in the engine - a definite defect they replaced at a steep discount, but it was still expensive (my part was $700 several years ago, and I had to complain to get it to that. I think it was originally in the thousands). Running like a top since then, aside from normal wear and tear issues.
I agree with finding a good independent mechanic. You can certainly take it to the dealership and get their opinion on what the problem might be, and then take their findings to the independent guy.
Story: My dealership told me I needed a really expensive repair on the Toyota’s a/c - like $3,000. I took it to the independent guy who does most things for both cars and they figured out it was a cracked O ring. The bill was $250. I still have a small freon leak neither place can find, but for $150 each summer for freon I’ll keep it until something else kills it. The independent guy didn’t mind tearing a few things apart to find the problem. The dealership wanted the easy fix.
Also, the starting issue could be something like a starter. That’s not cheap (just replaced the Honda’s for $400) but much cheaper than an engine.
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This is my guess. I recently had a similar issue with a 2008 VW. After worrying it was something expensive, a mechanic realized it was a sensor/cable thingie that cost less than $200 to repair. Runs like new again.
With all the computerized systems in autos these day, cars run like computers - one small easy to fix (yet byzantine to figure out) failure can cause a car to almost shut down.
EDIT: It was a spark thing, and once my mechanic deduced that he ran down a list of possible causes. Before he realized that, his checklist included fuel related issues.
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Independent mechanics are great. We use dealer during warranty (because you essentially have to) and then independent. Amazing how many times the real fix has been something relatively minor. Don’t really trust the dealer’s service area. Used to always just go to dealer and got sick of the big bills and was referred to the guy we use now. They’re great and really dig to find the problem. Also good about telling me if they can’t fix something and refer me to a specialist for that solve. Smaller shops can’t work on everything.
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Lots of useful info. Thank you all. I will see if an independent mechanic can fit me in.
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We have a 2006 Volvo that is approaching 300,000 miles (I think it is at 297K right now). It has a “new” engine that was replaced at 45K because the dealer didn’t properly replace the plug thing that keeps the oil in the engine after doing an oil change and it all leaked out over 2-3 weeks. The dealership and Volvo fought over it since the car was still under warranty and the dealership ended up eating the cost. That was the last time it was ever at the dealership! Both Volvos have been serviced by an independent garage once the free service terms ran out. We found them because DH called the parts guy and asked if there was an independent shop closer to our house that bought a lot of their parts (correctly assuming that the guy did a lot of Volvo work) and lucky us because his labor rate is 65% of what the dealer charges.
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I had a Volvo and the engine light came on. The problem was the gas cap needed to be replaced. No kidding.
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A local mechanic agreed to take a look tomorrow. We will see what they say. In my case, it may be something more than a gas cap. It also sputters from time to time. Of course, they may not be related at all.
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I’m not familiar with Volvo’s, but I don’t think the gas cap or O2 sensor would cause a sputter. Trip the CEL (Check Engine Light) yes. There should, but not always, be some oil hitting the floor, if your engine has a blown head gasket. Some cars have engine trays (underneath), so the oil could be collecting there, but again, I have no clue about Volvos.
I’d say the sputter is caused by a bad fuel injector or injectors, dirty fuel injectors or filter, wiring to the injectors, a bad spark plug or plugs or the spark plug wires are old or have melted (over time) from heat generated from outside and/or under the hood. Those would be the simplest things that could have happened.
When starting, turning off or operating your car, do you smell anything or notice any fluids dropping to the ground? If any fluid is dropping to the ground, what does it look and smell like?
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If it’s that old, it’s probably worth ditching. I’ve had clunkers before I’ve spent a fortune on. It’s easy to think that if I spend just a little more, it’ll finally be reliable. It’s like a bad relationship 
I think you’d be much better off just trading it in for something new. This is the best time of the year to buy a new car. Dealerships are trying to sell off the current models for next year, so you’re going to see a lot of incentives.
Even though the vehicle isn’t new, it only has a 100,000 miles on it. IMO a Volvo should run for at least a 100,000 more. As long as the body doesn’t rust out, the engine shouldn’t have to be replaced.
My husband channeled his inner Penny from The Big Bang Theory and drove a car for 100,000 with the check engine light on. It was a bad catalytic converter and it never got replaced. (The tire pressure light doesn’t bother him either but I digress)
From what I’m hearing it’s not a great time to buy a car. There is a chip shortage for cars right now. Very little inventory out there. I heard that car assembly lines are down, cars are sitting at the factory waiting for chips. And it won’t be fully resolved by mid 2022. New and used cars are in demand and with high prices.
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