<p>BALTIMORE is sometimes the forgotten middle child among attention-getting Eastern cities like Washington and New York. But a civic revival, which began with the harbor's makeover 27 years ago, has given out-of-towners reason to visit. Yes, there are wonderful seafood restaurants, Colonial history, quaint waterfronts and other tourist-ready attractions. But Baltimore's renaissance has also cultivated cool restaurants with innovative cuisine, independent theaters that showcase emerging talent and galleries that specialize in contemporary art. In other words, Baltimore is all grown up, but it's still a big city with a small-town feel.</p>
<p>Friday</p>
<p>4 p.m.
1) YOUR SEA LEGS</p>
<p>Get your bearings at the city's center, the Inner Harbor, and stroll along the edge of what was, 50 years ago, a working commercial port. Belying that workaday tradition is Harborplace & the Gallery, a pair of waterside malls that are good for little more than souvenirs and paddleboats in the shape of Chessie, the Chesapeake Bay's version of the Loch Ness monster. There's no avoiding the touristy kitsch, but authentic maritime history can be found in the well-maintained sloop-of-war Constellation (410-539-1797, <a href="http://www.constellation.org)%5B/url%5D">www.constellation.org)</a>, the last all-sail ship built by the Navy and a veteran of the Civil War. For $8.75, you can explore the ship's sleeping quarters, galley and cannons. Before the war, the Constellation patrolled the waters off West Africa to block slave traders.</p>
<p>7 p.m.
2) WILL WORK FOR FOOD</p>
<p>Maryland blue crab is what's for dinner. Put down some butcher-block paper, grab a mallet and start whacking away at a steaming pile of spice-smeared crustaceans. The rite of passage is not complete, of course, without cold beer. Discerning locals go to Obrycki's (1727 East Pratt Street, 410-732-6399; <a href="http://www.obryckis.com)%5B/url%5D">www.obryckis.com)</a>, known for a homemade peppery crab spice that, pardon the blasphemy, rivals Old Bay. The faux-fancy d</p>