<p>It’s constructed. Needs to be painted. Used bead board for the back. Crown moulding for accent across the shelves. I “ordered” some custom features that add a bit more functionality.
I’ll post a pic soon. I have one on my phone but don’t know how to post it on this page…</p>
<p>When they say the beds in ridgecrest west loft up to 33", is that from the top of the mattress to the floor or the bottom of the horizontal part of the frame to the floor? Wondering for under the bed storage options.</p>
<p>i think that measurement doesn’t include the mattress, but i don’t know for sure. you can get the under-bed storage options after you get the room set up.</p>
<p>I believe it is the measurement to the bottom of the mattress/frame. Daughter was in Riverside East last year which has the same lofting ability and she put her dresser under her bed and had a few inches to spare. The dresser is listed as being 30".</p>
<p>Edited to add:
Nix that, just looked again and the dresser width 30" and the depth is 24"? Although I’m pretty sure the height is also 30" like the unit in the common room is listed.</p>
<p>i think you are right about the dresser being 30 high. the dresser, desk and night stand are all the same height, and to be the right height, a desk should be 30 high. so i would guess that the 33 refers to the actual space UNDER the bed rail.</p>
<p>I think that’s the measurement for the highest rung, so that would be the bottom of the mattress.</p>
<p>Okay thanks! Has anyone tried putting a shower curtain rod with cut off curtain across under the lofted bed to cover up the storage? Would that even be an option?</p>
<p>[How</a> to hang your dust ruffle using a tension rod - YouTube](<a href=“How to hang your dust ruffle using a tension rod - YouTube”>How to hang your dust ruffle using a tension rod - YouTube)</p>
<p>If that link doesn’t work, go to youtube and search “How to hang your dust ruffle using a tension rod.”</p>
<p>We hung a hemmed curtain under the lofted bed using tension rods. It worked really well.</p>
<p>I just watched the youtube video. We used that exact same tension rod, but we placed it under the frame rather than on top.</p>
<p>i don’t think a shower curtain rod would be long enough.</p>
<p>you don’t really even need a tension rod. you just need a rod that is slightly smaller than the lenght of the inside of the bed and two rubber caps. you can adjust the length of the rod by putting nickels on the ends. </p>
<p>then you just wedge it in there tight.</p>
<p>i didn’t know tension rods came bed length! : )</p>
<p>We thought about how to do this last year, but our son didn’t loft his bed high enough that we needed to do anything. If he had, we were going to attempt to attach the “curtain” material directly to the bed frame using several spring clips spaced along the bed frame, with the actual bed ruffle covering up our handy work.</p>
<p>Adjustable Tension Rod 52" to 90"
[In-Tension</a> Rod 52" - 90" Drapery Rod - Bed Bath & Beyond](<a href=“http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?MC=1&SKU=14515577&RN=2467&KSKU=118769&]In-Tension”>http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?MC=1&SKU=14515577&RN=2467&KSKU=118769&)</p>
<p>I have never used this product but it might work for your purpose.</p>
<p>the bed platform is actually a metal frame with springs. I wonder if you could use carabiners, the big but cheap kind you find at the dollar store, not the real ones, and attach a curtian to the bed frame with those? It would not have the option of pulling the curtian back and forth, but would be able to be removed easily without zip ties being cut. And then no issues with a tension rod.</p>
<p>you could also probably do it with velcro or velcro command strips.</p>
<p>SO many solutions!</p>
<p>The end posts of the bed are very thick wooden posts so a tension rod would fit well and offer the ability to open and close the “drape”. I would probably use a "drape that had tabs, so no hooks would be necessary.</p>
<p>We used rod pocket curtains and the exact same style of tension rod that was demonstrated in the youtube video posted above. The tension rod was sturdy enough for daughter to slide the curtains when needed without falling.</p>
<p>We had panels made, but you could easily make them yourself using your favorite fabric and iron on hemming tape if you don’t sew. Others have mentioned they used cafe length curtains out of a package and they worked for them. We bought our tension rods from Dorm Suite Dorm since they made the panels, but they weren’t any different than the tension rods you can buy at Joann’s, Walmart, or any other store and they don’t have to be heavy duty. I do suggest using a zip tie on each end just to be sure they don’t fall down. Just have a knife or scissors to cut the zip ties at move out time or don’t tighten them too tight and you can slip the rod out.</p>
<p>There also isn’t any reason to use rings or clips unless you want to do so. Our D’s opened and closed very well just using the rod pocket.</p>
<p>Feel free to message me if you need the width measurements for the panels. Of course the length will depend upon how high you plan to loft your bed.</p>
<p>The panels make a huge difference in the way a room looks by adding color and hiding clutter.:)</p>
<p>agree - hiding the clutter in a dorm room makes all the difference. my daughters room wasn’t fancy. we didn’t really do any special things, but everything had a place and under her bed wasn’t loaded with 5 different kinds of unmatching storage.</p>
<p>outfit the closet to use all available space. use over the door pockets if you have swinging doors. get stuff for under the bad that matches and looks decent, or cover it up. : )</p>
<p>Regarding “behind the bed” shelving. I posted pics to Flickr. They’re public. Tag words: rolltide2012 or tutshelf or dorm shelf
19 pics total from beginning to end.
pm if you are having problems accessing</p>