Does popular perception equal quality?

<p>A. Lange Und Sohne
Alain Silberstein
Audemars Piguet
Blancpain
Breguet
Breitling
Cartier
Franck Muller
Jaeger LeCoultre
Omega
Patek Phillipe
Parmigiani
Rolex
Tag Heuer
Ulysse Nardin
Vacheron Constantin</p>

<p>As some of you may have already figured out, I have listed roughly 15 watchmakers. In terms of crafstmanship, design and quality, which of those would you say are the top/best 5 and the bottom/worst 5? Do not run a search as that would defeat the purpose of this exercise. Just express your opinion based on what you know.</p>

<p>Top? Probably Rolex. But I say that because I don’t think I’ve heard of the others. =p</p>

<p>For quality/exclusivity:</p>

<p>Patek Phillipe
A. Lange Und Sohne
Breguet
Rolex
Aduemars Piguet</p>

<p>Now, I’m a watch guy and even I don’t think I have the brands listed correctly for quality. There are so many exclusive boutique firms.
I actually love the classics like a Rolex Submariner, Patek Phillipe Calatrava, Breitling Navitimer, and Tag Heuer Monza (which they stopped making).</p>

<p>Bottom quality, or should I say less exclusivity if you could say, might be:
Tag Heuer
Omega
Cartier
Breitling</p>

<p>I also like IWC… An IWC Grande Complication in platinum with a black crocodile band is like my dream watch…except I don’t have $300k.
I don’t like Ulysse Nardin watches…too nautical in theme.</p>

<p>Top:
Patek Phillipe
Breguet
Rolex</p>

<p>Since I’m not a watch guy, I’ll say Rolex, Cartier, and Piguet–which are the ones I see advertised in the magazines I read.</p>

<p>I had a Rolex for a number of years and was not impressed. My Seiko kept better time and was less bulky. I bought another Seiko and dumped the Rolex. Patek Phillipe makes very nice thin dress watches. I’d take one.</p>

<p>Of the ones I’m familiar with, Patek Phillipe at the top. </p>

<p>I saw their ads in the New Yorker and checked out thier website. I found a beautiful watch there, only 35k (and that was a cheap one)!</p>

<p>Of the watches with which I am most familiar, they fall into four groups (from best to good):</p>

<p>Patek Phillipe (hands down the most beautiful, highest quality timepieces)</p>

<p>Vacheron Constantin (a close second)</p>

<p>Breitling
Jaeger LeCoultre
Tag Heuer</p>

<p>Cartier (quality jewelry but not as high quality timepieces)
Rolex (extremely overrated)
Omega (basic, solid)</p>

<p>I agree that is is best to group watches into tiers. It is too hard to distinguish watches within tiers. Do you agree, Alexandre?</p>

<p>The quality of the materials going into the watch is very important but the workmanship can add value. </p>

<p>I think the general public’s knowledge of watches is sketchy at best. But, if you were to ask professional watchmakers or knowledgeable consumers their perception, I think it would be pretty accurate. I think reputation among experts stems from factual information about the watch and develops over a long time frame. Novices are more susceptible to marketing pursuasion. </p>

<p>It is difficult for a new watchmaker to break into the upper echelons of the timepiece hierarchy. </p>

<p>I think madison avenue marketing and glossy advertising can fool the uninformed novice but eventually the truth will triumph. Timepiece marketing will only carry a maker so far. If the engineering is poor, even the novice public will eventually become aware.</p>

<p>As things stand in the watchmaking business, I think Rolex currently has the dominant position but those of us who have experienced a certain less well regarded timepiece (which shall remain unnamed) have grown to love the quality of its engineering.</p>

<p>As far as Barrons’ Seiko is concerned, it is a quality mass-produced timepiece but chronophiles such as myself can detect a clear difference.</p>

<p>“…those of us who have experienced a certain less well regarded timepiece (which shall remain unnamed) have grown to love the quality of its engineering…”</p>

<p>Why is the brand a secret?</p>

<p>I think it’s a Casio G-Shock…I love 'em myself.</p>

<p>

</p>

<p>Of course not. There is much difference between two of them. Thus, we need a precise ranking that takes into account materials, colors, markings on the watch (numbers, etc.), the hands, the durability, the frequency in the population, the price, and a few other trivial measures. We should also throw in other manufacturer’s opinions. The result is a ranking that shows how different the watches are – clearly the #5 is far inferior to #2, and #14 is just downright horrible, not nearly as good as #8.</p>

<p>^ Haha…good one.</p>

<p>I put my Seiko in a drawer for three years and pull it out and the time is still perfect. I seriously doubt any high-priced mechanicals will do that.</p>

<p>

</p>

<p>haha --I know those watches; they are like little tanks, for sure, and never seem to die. :)</p>

<p>I’d put the Patek Phillipe at the top, and actually, I always thought Omega was way up there in terms of quality. I never heard of most of the rest-- too intrigued am I with my own Casio. ;)</p>

<p>My very ignorant opinion(I would certainly do that research if I were to buy a high quality watch):
Top:
Vacheron Constantin
Breitling
Franck Muller
Rolex
Tag Heuer</p>

<p>Bottom:
Breguet
Omega
Parmigiani</p>

<p>Haven’t even heard of the others.</p>

<p>Certainly not Breitling. They don’t keep parts for their watches. If anything goes wrong after 5 years, they just shrug and say they cannot fix it. </p>

<p>I’ve heard that among the top Swiss watchmakers, only a few manufacture their own products. My favorite is Breguet. </p>

<p>Anyway, brand awareness is not the same as actual high quality.</p>

<p>My favorite watch shall remain nameless because it is in a different tier altogether.</p>

<p>The best watches are made in the US. There are only a few brands manufactured overseas that compare with the best US made.</p>

<p>I suppose there are differences in taste with regard to style and simplicity. Some prefer all the special features and some prefer elegant simplicity. Personally, I prefer a watch that is fundamentally well-made. Give me the basics but the basics better be great. I don’t care what time it is in Cairo. I don’t need an alarm. I don’t need temperature and barometric pressure. I want to know what time it is on the east coast but I want it accurately. </p>

<p>I also like to be able to see the time when I need to. I like the glow in the dark features and the illumination features. I also don’t mind the second hand. I think the second hand can be helpful. I know that some prefer just the minute hand and hour hand but they don’t know what they are missing. The second hand is there to fill the voids between minutes.</p>

<p>You can tell a lot about a person from the timepiece. I like to be surrounded by timepieces similar to my own. I like to be surrounded by similar taste and similar engineering. No Timex. No Seiko. And no Rolex either. The best real quality is in that lower first tier where they are not resting on their laurels but still value workmanship. That’s where you get the best for your buck. Good old-fashioned, no-nonsense workmanship and engineering. Striving to become better, then best. </p>

<p>The view might be better from the top, but the challengers try harder.</p>

<p>

</p>

<p>I think there should be “tiering” as well when discussing these watches. The first group should be the very highest quality watchmakers (both Swiss and German) that produce timepieces with extremely complicated movements (e.g. watches that incorporate moon phase movements, repeaters, etc.) and are at the cutting edge of watchmaking precision and engineering:</p>

<ul>
<li>A. Lange Und Sohne</li>
<li>Audemars Piguet</li>
<li>Blancpain</li>
<li>Franck Muller (quasi-jeweler see below)</li>
<li>Patek Phillipe</li>
<li>Jaeger LeCoultre</li>
<li>Vacheron Constantin
etc.</li>
</ul>

<p>Many of the watches made by these makers are not for mass consumption, the high end pieces are extremely expensive and are not really practical for a daily wearer (I mean you could, but it would be like taking either a Maybach or an F1 car out to your local burger joint).</p>

<p>Then you’ve got very high end watches with superb movement which are produced at a much higher production level (and have a higher level of immediate brand recognition):</p>

<ul>
<li>Rolex</li>
<li>IWC</li>
<li>Breitling</li>
<li>Panarei</li>
</ul>

<p>You also have “jewelry” pieces, i.e. traditional jewelers that also produce watches which incorporate precious stones in many of their pieces:

  • Franck Muller (though this maker is a bit unique since it also produces high end complications)
  • Chopard
  • Harry Winston
  • Tiffany’s
  • Van Cleef and Arpels</p>

<p>At another level, you have watches that are high end “fashion” pieces (not to say that they don’t have solid movements, but they are more known for high end apparel and other accessories – in other words, you’re not going to be purchasing any Patek Phillipe handbags and scarfs any time soon):

  • Bulgari
  • Cartier
  • Chanel
  • Hermes</p>

<p>Then you’ve got watches which are at a lower level in terms of prestige, movement and target market:

  • Omega (people might argue, but I’m not a fan of Omegas)
  • Tag Heuer
  • Tissot</p>

<p>And then you’ve got watches that are everywhere in between those “tiers”. I happen to be a huge watch lover. I’ve got a number of watches in any number of those tiers. After a while, as a frequent traveler, I’ve found a watch with a GMT function to be extremely valuable – and also the ability to change time quickly. That’s why for most business trips I almost always opt for either the Explorer II or GMT Master II simply because the ability to change the hour hand independent of minute movement makes changing time a breeze (and you can do this in real time with no stop in the movement) as well as the second 24 hour hand which keeps track of a second time (and in the GMT Master II’s case you can utilize the rotating bezel, so you can technically track a third time). The oyster casing is virtually indestructible, I have dropped them more times than I’d like, banged them up (since I worry less about it being a fragile piece) and they run like a charm – i.e. if I were wearing a Patek, I take much more care where my hand and wrist are moving and take care not to put unnecessary stress on the piece. Lastly, in terms of sheer wearability, its hard to beat the comfort of the oyster bracelet – I like the weight as well – not too heavy and not to cumbersome (like a Panarei can be). As a daily wearer, I find myself going back to a Rolex most frequently, they are reliable, not too flashy and most importantly, they are comfortable – I’ve worn one in boardrooms and in the back streets of Bangkok.</p>

<p>^^^ Panerai (typo above)</p>